Friday, October 23, 2009

MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:   Missoni show
WHERE: The cloisters of the Universita Statale
WHEN:    27th September
WHY:       Spring/Summer 2010 collection
WHERE: The courtyard of the Universita Statale had a giant plexiglass Missoni sign on the grass. On a truly beautiful and warm day, it was a pleasure to watch the show, al fresco, under the arches of the cloisters in such a beautiful setting.

RUNWAY MISSONI.   The finale of the beautiful 2010 Spring/Summer collection. The slim silhouettes are pure charm and poetry, swathed in light, air, the color of the sky, water, tangles of plants and trees, supple nets, love knots, mermaid scales, iridescent seashells, dewdrops quivering on leaves, and transparencies whose form and color allude to the happy, light, impalpable, contemporary, positive, contented and serene heart of Missoni’s Summer collection.

 BACKSTAGE MISSONI. Angela Missoni and super hairdresser, Paul Hanlon check the models before the show.

BACKSTAGE MISSONI – the make-up.   The make-up was created by Lucia Pieroni, using MAC cosmetics. Cultish team; Missoni goes to Ibiza, it is all about the mouth, day glow pale pink and super clear skin.
WHAT: Accessories. Whistles attached to friendship necklaces made of chains and colored ribbons are wrapped around the neck.

BACKSTAGE MISSONI – the hairstyle.  The hairstyle was created by super hairdresser, Paul Hanlon.  1950s masculine in front using men’s hair pomade and fish tail plaits at the back.

WHO:   French Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld and Max Mara’s Giorgio Guidotti.

WHO: Italian Vogue’s Anna Piaggi.

BACKSTAGE MISSONI. The seemingly simple construction accentuates the richness of the materials.  Loose meshes and embroidered origami with a three-dimensional weave, knots and openwork, lace, tulle and featherweight jersey are the mementos of Missoni’s sweeping imagination.   Super-slim forms that can be body-hugging or flowing – sensual, feminine, ruffled and draped – are often layered and veiled with sheer duster coats.
The it – bags. Long slim shoulder pouches, small woven baskets and knitted rucksacks.
The Sandals.  The thick-soled sandals raised on kitten heels and embellished with souvenir ankle bracelets.

WHO:  Rosita Missoni, who just opened the first Hotel Missoni in Edinburgh and her granddaughter, Margherita.

WHO: Luca and Judy Missoni.

WHAT: Missoni's creative director, Angela Missoni walks up the runway after the beautiful show in the cloisters of the Universita Statale.

WHAT:  Due to the heat of the day, luckily, Missoni water was on hand for everybody.

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MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHERE: Corso Venezia 3
WHEN:  September, 2009
WHY:     opening new boutique 
WHAT:  Prada presents a new modernist attitude to shopping.  An outcome of the continuous experimentation of the brand.  The new store on Corso Venezia represents the perfect synthesis of environment, architecture and the Made to Order collection. It is the Made to Order service that is architectonically and conceptually, the focal point of the new Prada store. There are various solutions to different product typologies, for example, the boots above can be ordered in any color and any size.

WHAT:  With this store, Prada continues its course of research to provide exclusive offerings for its clientele, with an emphasis on the Made to Order range, which is constantly expanding and always more personalized.

Even in the case of accessories such as belts and footwear, Prada Corso Venezia 3 offers a selection of materials and hues only available by special order.  From fabric sneakers for men that become a unique piece thanks to the addition, upon request of a leather or crocodile side-strip; to the women’s boots in crocodile that are available in ten different shades with the option of branding the client’s initials onto them, everything revolves around an environment steeped in exclusivity.
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MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:    Aquilano Rimondi show
WHERE:  La Pelota
WHEN:    27th September
WHY:       Spring/Summer 2010 collection
WHAT:      Monet, Gaudi, patchwork, the orient are the four elements combined in the Aquilano Rimondi Spring/Summer 2010 Collection creating contrasts of prints and bright colors illuminated by silver foil in sand hues.  The return of the noble tradition of Italian fabrics and contemporary satorialism are at its essence.  Silhouettes are sharp or a boule, defined by the contrasts of regimental prints and oversized knots of frills.  The final effect evoked by the entire collection is a kaleidoscopic illusion of colors and embroideries.
Contessanally tip: click on any photo to enlarge it.
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Thursday, October 22, 2009

MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:    Etro show
WHERE:  Via Piranesi
WHEN:     27th September
WHY:       Spring/Summer 2010 collection
WANT:   One of the beautiful cushions used as seating during the show.

Two of the Etro brothers arrive for the fashion show.  Kean, the Etro Menswear designer and his wife and muse, Constanza and Jacopo who designs the Etro Home Collection.

WHAT - a detail of Kean’s outfit. Note how well all the colors and textures work together in Kean's outfit.

WHAT - a detail of Kean’s outfit. Love the ethnic inspired cross stitched shirt and the sophisticated contrasting silk piping of stripes and polka dots on the inside pocket of the jacket.

WHAT - a detail of Kean’s outfit.    Pink jeans complete the look with pointed lace-ups in hound’s-tooth tweed and leather.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the make-up.  Glamorous, smokey eyes like a 1970s look juxtaposed with the 1990s.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the make-up artist. Val Garland, the artistic adviser for YSL Makeup, reflected in the mirror above designed the make-up for the Etro show using MAC products.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the make-up secret tips.   Val Garland confided three make-up Secret Tips that no woman should be without:
1) YSL Pore Defining Skincare Brush. With a single brush stroke, signs of fatigue are erased, and skin is left feeling velvety smooth and fresh with radiance.
2) YSL Midnight Spa, Restoring Skincare Palette, Face Cream – Lip Balm, which nourishes and replenishes the skin while you sleep. It targets the skin affected by stress, pollution, climate changes and lack of sleep and helps regain soothed, perfectly hydrated and smoothed skin.
3) YSL Touche Eclat gives Light, luminosity, radiance, it’s true because I have been using it for years.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the hair. Tissue and plaits are setting the style.
WANT:  backstage each model was given an Etro paisley silk kimono of different patterns to wear.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the hair. The finished effect,  created by Eugene Souleiman which he described as natural tight and fizzy.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the hair. The back view of the hairstyle, the finish effect is gorgeous and wavy.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the drink.
   Models backstage were offered Coca Cola Light in the specially designed Etro bottle, destined to become a collector’s item.

WHO:  Seen at Etro, Italian Elle’s Luca Lanzoni.

BACKSTAGE ETRO.  Two models photograph themselves with an iphone.

BACKSTAGE ETRO. For Spring Summer 2010 Veronica Etro offers a vision of relaxed ease and resolute femininity that centers on dressing a real woman.  Prints the hallmark of the Etro brand, take center stage in this collection that sees elaborate and unusual patters forging a natural, unforced decoration.
Note: the gold tassel belt worn as a necklace, tassels are a strong trend for next year’s accessories while the hard stone jewelry has an organic feel.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the it-bag. Puffy leather big handbag with metal chain and leather cuff-handles.

BACKSTAGE ETRO – the sandals.  The sandals are either flat or high, some are embellished with embroidered chains.

BACKSTAGE ETRO. The workmanship is rigorously extreme, but the mood is subtly low-key.  At the root of each design is the concept of versatile clothing that can be transformed in a multitude of ways according to a woman’s whims and needs.

BACKSTAGE ETRO. The organic quality of the patterns are complemented by fluid silhouettes that gaze the body with a relaxed non-chalance.  Soft ruffles, waves and frills add a consistently feminine undertone on silk dresses or crepe de chine overalls.  Long printed wrap dresses with curved printed hems are cinched at the waist with suede petal leaf belts.

RUNWAY ETRO.  The photographers at the end of the runway.
Contessanally tip: Click on any photo to enlarge it.

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MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:    Tribute to Fashion – Fashion and the City
WHO:      Coca Cola Light
WHERE:  All over the city
WHEN:    During Fashion Week
WHY:      To raise money for the people of the Abruzzo region who where affected by the terrible earthquake earlier this year. 
WHO:       Coca Cola Light in an effort to raise money for charity invited eight Italian fashion houses to design a Coke bottle for the Coca Cola Light Tribute to fashion. The brands were; Fendi, Mochino, Etro, Versace, Marni, Blumarine, Alberta Ferretti and Missoni, shown above, in Corso venezia, placed in front of their Milan offices.
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Wednesday, October 21, 2009

MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:    Marni show
WHERE:  Via Alserio
WHEN:     27th September
WHY:       Spring/Summer 2010 collection
WHAT: There is a new sense of ease and fluidity this season.  Natural and treated fabrics. Solid colours and polychrome designs. Geometric and floral patterns. These are the interactions in the Spring/Summer 2010  Marni collection.

 BACKSTAGE MARNI – the make-up.   The make-up was created by Tom Pecheux. Mat skin with washes of rose plum is very sculptural and looks like a glazed piece of pottery. Bohemian and effortless.  The lips are stained plum with focus in the center, a bit like a modern day 1920s shape.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the make-up.    The tools of the trade.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the hair.    The hairstyle was created by Paul Hanlon using two mismatched printed silk scarves.  It is very simple, effortless, easy, almost undone and deconstructed.

Two models flirt with the photographers.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the it bag. Soft folded nappa bags. Oversized metal and leather covered frames finished with large boules on satchels or piped box bags. Flat, almost one-dimensional stencilled cut-out bags.  All are strong elements of the collection.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the accessories. Depth and movement are defined by the unexpected combinations of material, colour and design, structural elements and decorative detailing. The whole collection is illuminated by big petal earrings in oxidised horn, wood and crystal stones or leather flowers like golden-edged parchment. Wood and resin make up the bracelets. Separate collars are  encrusted with macro-sequins and organza covered crystals.

RUNWAY MARNI – the boots. Stilettoed ankle boots with cut out toes are worn with beige short socks.

RUNWAY MARNI – the sandals. Soft leather brown, black and white deco sandals with medium heels are also worn with beige “sloppy” socks.
WANT: a pair of Marni socks, they have a knitted black line going up from the heel.

WHAT: breakfast.  Being the first show of the day, breakfast is always served. Espresso coffee is on hand as the press and buyers walk into the venue.

WHAT: breakfast.  Warm flaky croissants are stuffed with prosciutto di Parma or with jam.

WHAT: breakfast.  The freshly pressed orange juice.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the press.  American Vogue’s Anna Wintour gets a private tour of the racks before the show from Consuelo Castiglioni.
Note: the gentleman to the right is one of the two bodyguards who protected Anna during the Milan Fashion Week.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the press.  English Vogue
’s Alexandra Schulman.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the VIPs.   10 Corso Como’s Carla Sozzani.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the VIPs.  Consuelo Castiglioni
’ s daughter, Carolina.

Jewelry designer, Giorgio Vigna and Marni’s creative director, Consuelo Castiglioni.

WHAT: breakfast. 
A waiter looks smart and crisp with a white shirt, black apron and Converse sneakers.

WHAT: breakfast – a detail.  Delicious yogurt with raspberries and muesli was served in small transparent glasses.

WHO:  The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman compares photos with his blogger girlfriend, Garance Dore.

WHO:  American Vogue’s Hamish Bowles, sporting a mustache and English Vogue’s fashion editor, Charlotte Pilcher.

WHO: Superstar image director, Fabien Barron.

WHO: Japan’s WWD fashion director, Shunichi Mugita.

WHO:  American Vanity Fair’s Michael Roberts and the New York Times’s Cathy Horyn.

  Superstar fashion editor, Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune and the New York Times.

WHO: Vips photographer, Mario Testino.

RUNWAY MARNI:  Printed stripes, checks and polka dots, flowers printed on tulle and lurex tweed reflect the unmistakable style of Marni. There is a sense of the modern and unexpected, a touch of the recherché.
WANT: the stripped leggings, they look so modern.

THE GRAND FINALE – MARNI: A wardrobe of textural contrasts of silk and cotton, linen and paper pressed onto fine organza.  Fabrics enriched by jacquard and devoré, linen and cotton check woven with rubber, embroideries with veiled and covered stones and suede stencil cutout motifs.

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